Medieval Clothing for Women: Where to Buy Authentic Dress

Medieval Clothing for Women: Types, Styles, and Expert Buying Tips

The medieval period, spanning roughly from the 5th to the late 15th century, was a fascinating era for women’s fashion. The clothing women wore during this time not only reflected their social status but also showcased the craftsmanship and artistry of the time. If you’re interested in medieval women’s clothing, whether for historical reenactments, cosplay, or just for fun, you’re in for a treat. This guide will walk you through the all types, medieval clothing for women, the fabrics used, and tips on how to buy them today.

The Importance of Clothing in Medieval Times

In the Middle Ages, women’s clothing wasn’t just about fashion. It spoke volumes about their social class, occupation, and even their marital status. The wealthier you were, the more extravagant your clothing. Nobles and royals wore luxurious fabrics like silk, velvet, and fur, while peasants dressed in simpler, more practical outfits made from wool and linen.

Key Factors That Influenced Medieval Dress:

• Social Status: Nobles had the finest fabrics, peasants had simple clothes.
• Practicality: Clothes were designed to keep women warm in colder climates.
• Religion: Modesty was important, with many dresses covering from the neck to the ankles.

Now, let’s dive into the various types of medieval women’s dresses and how you can buy or recreate them today.

1. The Kirtle – (amazon.com)

The Kirtle was a staple in the wardrobes of medieval women, dating from the 10th to the 16th century. This versatile dress was worn as an undergarment or as an outer dress, depending on the social class and occasion. Women of higher status would typically layer the Kirtle under more elaborate gowns, while peasants would wear it as their primary outfit.

Features of the Kirtle:

• Form-fitting Bodice: The bodice was designed to accentuate the waist and fit snugly.
• Flowing Skirt: The skirt flared out gently to allow freedom of movement, which was practical for everyday life.
• Lace-up Sides or Front: Many Kirtles had laces on the sides or front for a customizable fit.

Materials and Colors: Wealthy women would wear Kirtles made of silk, velvet, or fine wool, often dyed in rich colors like deep green or royal blue.

2. The Surcoat – (amazon.com)

The Surcoat was popular in the 13th and 14th centuries and was known for its elegant appearance. This outer gown was worn over other garments like the Kirtle or a simpler dress. Surcoats often had large armholes and featured rich detailing that signified wealth and social status.

Key Characteristics of the Surcoat:

• Sideless Design: The signature feature of the Surcoat was its wide armholes, known as “gates of hell.” This design emphasized the underdress or Kirtle worn beneath.
• Long, Flowing Fabric: Surcoats often draped gracefully, extending to the ground and adding layers to the overall outfit.
• Ornate Trimmings and Embroidery: The wealthier you were, the more elaborate your Surcoat. Embellishments often included gold thread, pearls, and intricate embroidery.

Color and Fabric Choices: Surcoats were typically made from luxurious fabrics like silk and brocade. Royal colors such as purple, gold, and red were favored by the noble class.

Pro Tip: When purchasing a Surcoat, consider one with authentic embroidery and made from high-quality fabric to elevate your medieval look.

3. The Bliaut – (amazon.com)

The Bliaut is one of the most distinctive and luxurious types of medieval clothing for women. Originating in the 12th century, the Bliaut was synonymous with the high fashion of its time. It was worn mostly by noblewomen due to its intricate design and expensive fabric.

Defining Features of the Bliaut:

• Tight-fitting Upper Body: The top of the Bliaut was closely tailored to showcase the figure.
• Flowing, Draped Sleeves: One of the most eye-catching elements was its long sleeves that could drape to the floor.
• Complex Pleating: The skirt of the Bliaut featured fine pleats or gathers, adding volume and grace.

Material Choices: Fine silk, damask, and velvet were popular choices. Lower classes may have opted for simpler wool versions, but these lacked the ornate trimmings of noble garments.

Buying Tip: When shopping for a Bliaut, look for dresses that highlight the pleated detailing and have the classic long sleeves for that authentic look.

4. The Cotehardie – (amazon.com)

The Cotehardie became popular during the 14th and 15th centuries. It marked a shift in medieval fashion towards more tailored and fitted clothing. Originally a unisex garment, the Cotehardie adapted into a highly feminine dress for women.

Notable Features of the Cotehardie:

• Buttoned Front: The Cotehardie often featured buttons or lacing down the front, allowing the wearer to adjust the fit.
• Tight Bodice: Like the Kirtle, the Cotehardie’s bodice was snug, showcasing the shape of the torso.
• Long Sleeves with Cuffs or Tippets: These sleeves often ended with decorative cuffs or extended into long tippets that trailed down.

Fabrics and Embellishments: These dresses were made from rich materials like wool, velvet, and linen. Noble versions featured fur-lined edges and metallic embellishments for a regal touch.

5. The Houppelande – (amazon.com)

The Houppelande emerged in the late 14th century and became a popular garment into the 15th century. It was the pinnacle of medieval opulence and often worn by royalty and nobility. The Houppelande was known for its dramatic appearance, featuring wide sleeves and a full silhouette.

Key Characteristics of the Houppelande:

• Voluminous Shape: The dress flared out dramatically from the waist or shoulders, making it look grand and regal.
• High Collar: Often, the Houppelande had a standing collar that added a touch of sophistication.
• Long, Draping Sleeves: The sleeves were exaggerated in length, with some trailing almost to the ground.

Popular Fabrics: Velvet and brocade were the go-to fabrics, often lined with fur for extra luxury. The wealthiest would even use gold and silver thread for embroidery.

Shopping Tip: Look for Houppelandes with striking sleeves and rich fabrics. They should create an impressive, flowing effect when worn.

6. The Peasant Dress – (amazon.com)

The Peasant Dress was the most common attire for medieval women of the lower class. Though simple, it had a practical design perfect for daily chores and rural life. This dress is still beloved today for its rustic charm and comfort.

Characteristics of the Peasant Dress:

• Basic Shape: The dress was loose-fitting with a straight silhouette, often cinched with a belt at the waist.
• Durable Fabrics: Peasant dresses were usually made from coarse wool or linen to withstand daily wear and tear.
• Minimal Embellishments: Unlike dresses worn by nobility, the Peasant Dress had little to no decoration.

Color Choices: Colors were typically earthy tones like brown, grey, and beige. These colors were practical, as they didn’t show dirt as much and were easier to produce with natural dyes.

7. The Chemise – (amazon.com)

The Chemise was an essential undergarment worn by women of all social classes during the medieval period. It was the foundation for many outfits and served to protect the outer layers of clothing from sweat and oils. The Chemise was as important as it was functional, and modern enthusiasts love it for its simplicity and comfort.

Features of the Chemise:

• Loose and Lightweight: The Chemise was loose-fitting and made from lightweight materials such as linen or cotton.
• Simple Neckline: It often had a plain round or V-shaped neckline that could be gathered with a drawstring.
• Full Sleeves: The sleeves were long and gathered at the cuffs or left loose.

Material and Comfort: The Chemise was commonly made from linen, which was breathable and soft against the skin. This made it perfect for layering under heavier dresses.

Buying Tip: When purchasing a Chemise, look for options that have a natural feel and are comfortable enough to wear for long periods. You can find well-made versions in a range of prices from online historical clothing retailers.

8. The Mantle – (amazon.com)

The Mantle was a type of cloak or cape that was worn over dresses to provide warmth and elegance. Worn by noblewomen and commoners alike, the Mantle added an extra layer of style to any outfit. It’s an essential piece of medieval clothing for women for those cooler days or outdoor events.

Defining Features of the Mantle:

• Full-Length Design: Mantles were usually long and draped over the shoulders, extending down to the ankles.
• Fastenings: They were secured with a brooch or tied at the front.
• Hooded or Unhooded: Mantles could come with or without hoods, adding versatility to the design.

Materials and Colors: Wealthier women often wore Mantles made from velvet or lined with fur, while simpler versions were made from wool. Common colors included deep blue, crimson, and other rich hues that signified status.

Pro Tip: Choose a Mantle that complements your main dress. For an authentic look, find one made from wool or velvet with period-accurate fastenings.

9. The Veil – (amazon.com)

The Veil was one of the most important accessories for medieval women. It symbolized modesty and piety and was worn by women of all social ranks. The veil’s design varied based on social status, with the more elaborate versions adorned by noblewomen.

Characteristics of the Veil:

• Simple or Ornate: While common women wore simple veils made from linen or cotton, noblewomen opted for luxurious fabrics like silk, sometimes embroidered with gold or trimmed with lace.
• Length Options: Veils could range from short, shoulder-length versions to long, flowing ones that covered the back.
• Placement: The veil was typically draped over the head and secured with a circlet, headband, or pins.

Styling Tip: Pair your veil with a wimple or a coif for a complete medieval look. When buying, look for lightweight, breathable fabrics to ensure comfort, especially during warm weather.

10. The Coif – (amazon.com)

The Coif was a close-fitting cap worn by both men and women during the medieval period. For women, it served as a base layer under other head coverings, like veils or hoods. The coif was popular for its practicality—it kept hair neat and provided warmth.

Features of the Coif:

• Close-Fitting Design: The coif covered the head and was tied under the chin, fitting snugly to ensure that other garments stayed in place.
• Simple Construction: It was often made from linen or wool, depending on the season and social status.
• Decorative Options: Noblewomen’s coifs were sometimes decorated with embroidery or lace.

Benefits: The coif not only kept hair tidy but also provided a secure base for holding heavier headpieces in place. This made it a practical addition to medieval clothing for women.

Buying Advice: Choose a coif made from breathable fabrics if you plan to wear it for long hours. Hand-stitched or historically inspired coifs add an extra touch of authenticity.

11. The Gown – (amazon.com)

The Gown was a staple of medieval fashion and came in many different styles depending on the time period and the wearer’s social status. Gowns for noblewomen were often lavishly made, while simpler versions were worn by commoners. This essential piece of medieval clothing for women can create a stunning base for your outfit.

Key Characteristics of the Gown:

• Various Silhouettes: Gowns could be form-fitting with long, trailing skirts or looser with flowing fabric.
• Long Sleeves: Most medieval gowns featured long sleeves, which could be simple or more elaborate, with trailing cuffs known as tippets.
• Lace-Up or Buttoned Bodice: Many gowns had front lacing or buttons that allowed for a snug, adjustable fit.

Fabric Choices: Wealthy women’s gowns were made from rich fabrics like silk, velvet, and brocade, while poorer women wore wool or linen.

Styling Tip: Pair a gown with a partlet or wimple for an authentic medieval look. Look for gowns that feature historical detailing like embroidery or beading to stand out at fairs or events.

12. The Partlet – (amazon.com)

The Partlet was a versatile piece of clothing worn over or under a gown. It served as a modesty piece to cover the neckline and could be worn by women of all social classes. Partlets were practical and added an extra layer to protect against the cold or provide additional decoration.

Key Features of the Partlet:

• Variety in Styles: Partlets could be sleeveless or have short sleeves. Some were high-necked, while others featured a lower neckline to reveal the dress underneath.
• Fabrics: For wealthier women, partlets were often made from sheer silk or embroidered fabrics. Simpler linen versions were common for the lower classes.
• Embellishments: Partlets could be adorned with lace, embroidery, or beading for extra flair.

Practicality: Partlets provided both warmth and modesty, making them an essential layering piece. They were especially useful for women who wanted to create a layered look without wearing multiple heavy garments.

How to Style: Partlets pair beautifully with gowns and can be worn under a gown’s bodice or draped over the shoulders. Choose a partlet that complements the colors of your other garments for a unified look.

13. The Girdle – (amazon.com)

The Girdle was more than just a belt. It was an essential accessory that accentuated the waist and added an extra touch of sophistication to a medieval woman’s attire. Girdles were worn over dresses, cinching them at the waist and often serving as a decorative piece.

Characteristics of the Girdle:

• Material Choices: Girdles were made from leather, silk, or woven fabric. Wealthier women opted for girdles adorned with jewels, metal fittings, or intricate embroidery.
• Functional Yet Decorative: The girdle wasn’t just for show. It could hold small pouches, keys, or other items a woman might need to carry.
• Long Ends: Some girdles had long, dangling ends that were embellished with tassels or charms for an extra flair.

How to Wear It: The girdle was typically fastened at the waist, with the loose end hanging down the front or side of the dress. This added movement and visual interest to the outfit.

14. The Apron – (amazon.com)

The Apron was an everyday essential for medieval women, especially those involved in household tasks or working outdoors. While aprons were functional, they were also crafted with care, adding a touch of style to simpler outfits.

Key Features of the Medieval Apron:

• Practical Design: Medieval aprons were made from durable fabrics like linen or wool. They protected dresses from dirt and wear during daily activities.
• Simple or Decorated: Aprons ranged from plain and utilitarian to more decorative versions for special occasions. Embroidery or lace trim could add elegance to an otherwise simple piece.
• Tie Placement: The apron tied around the waist and sometimes featured shoulder straps for additional support.

Why You Need One: An apron adds authenticity to any medieval costume, making it ideal for reenactments or themed events. It also provides practicality when handling food, crafts, or other fair activities.

15. The Headdress – (amazom.com)

Medieval women’s headwear was both fascinating and varied. The Headdress, including styles like the Hennin and Barbette, was a sign of status and style. Whether simple or elaborate, these headdresses completed the medieval look with grace and elegance.

The Hennin:

• Cone-Shaped Design: The Hennin is famously known as the pointed, cone-shaped hat often seen in paintings of noblewomen.
• Veils and Tippets: The Hennin often had a veil flowing from the tip, adding to its dramatic silhouette.
• Height and Prestige: The taller the hennin, the higher the social status of the wearer. It was usually made from fine materials like silk or velvet and sometimes embroidered or bejeweled.

The Barbette

• Chin Band Style: The Barbette was a simple band of linen that wrapped under the chin and over the head, often worn with a coif or veil.
• Comfort and Versatility: It was a practical headpiece that kept hair in place and added a sophisticated touch to the outfit.
• Combination with Veils: The Barbette was frequently paired with a simple veil or wimple for a complete head covering.

Styling Tip: Choose a headdress that matches the formality of your gown. For a regal appearance, opt for a hennin with a long, flowing veil. For a more modest, everyday look, a barbette paired with a coif is perfect.

Fabrics to Look For When Buying Medieval Dresses

Medieval women’s dresses were made from a variety of fabrics, depending on the wearer’s social status. If you want to get the most authentic look, here’s a quick rundown of the most commonly used materials:

• Linen: Used for undergarments like chemises and for summer dresses.
• Wool: Warm and durable, ideal for everyday wear and outer garments.
• Silk: Luxurious and expensive, worn by the upper class.
• Velvet: A rich fabric used for gowns like the houppelande.
• Brocade: A patterned fabric, often used for more ornate dresses.

Tips for Buying Medieval Women’s Dresses

Now that you know the types of dresses available, here are some tips for purchasing a medieval women’s dress:

1. Set a Budget: Medieval dresses can range from simple and affordable to expensive and elaborate. Decide on your budget before shopping.
2. Choose the Right Fabric: For authenticity, stick with natural fabrics like wool, linen, and silk. Synthetic fabrics may be cheaper but can look less authentic.
3. Measure Carefully: Medieval dresses are often fitted, so accurate measurements are key. Always check the sizing chart if buying online.
4. Look for Quality Craftsmanship: Hand-sewn details, embroidery, and real buttons or lacing can make a huge difference in the look of your dress.
5. Read Reviews: Check customer reviews to ensure the dress fits well and is made from quality materials.

10 Most Common Questions About Medieval Clothing for Women

1. What did medieval clothing for women look like?

Medieval clothing for women varied greatly over time and across social classes, but it often included long dresses, tunics, and kirtles (a type of underdress). In the early Middle Ages, clothing was simple, often made of wool or linen. Women typically wore a long chemise underneath, which served as both underwear and a basic dress. Over this, they might wear a kirtle and then a gown or a surcoat (an outer layer). By the late Middle Ages, clothing became more elaborate, featuring fitted bodices, flowing sleeves, and embroidery. Fabrics like silk, brocade, and velvet became more common among the wealthy.

2. What materials were commonly used for medieval women’s clothing?

The materials used for medieval clothing for women depended on status and wealth. The most common fabric was wool, which was affordable, versatile, and warm. Linen was used for undergarments and lighter garments, providing comfort against the skin. Wealthier women could afford silk, velvet, and brocade, fabrics that were imported and signaled status. These luxury fabrics were often dyed in bright colors using expensive dyes, like deep blues and reds. Lower-class women had to use coarser, undyed wool, which was cheaper but less comfortable and attractive.

3. How were medieval dresses styled, and how did fashion evolve over the Middle Ages?

Early medieval clothing for women was loose and simple. Dresses had a straight cut with little shaping. Over time, as tailoring techniques improved, dresses became more form-fitting. By the 14th century, fashion had changed dramatically. Dresses featured tight bodices and full skirts, which accentuated the waist and hips. Sleeves grew longer and wider, sometimes trailing to the ground. By the late Middle Ages, gowns became even more sophisticated, incorporating rich fabrics, elaborate embroidery, and lacework. Necklines also changed from conservative, high cuts to wider, more revealing styles.

4. What did women wear underneath their dresses?

Women in medieval times wore a chemise or shift as the base layer. This simple, linen undergarment was loose and reached the ankles or floor. It absorbed sweat and protected outer garments from body oils. Over the chemise, women might wear a kirtle, which was an underdress that could be laced or fitted. Wealthy women sometimes had specially tailored undergarments that helped shape their bodies. Corsets as we know them today did not exist yet, but stiffened bodices began to appear toward the end of the medieval period.

5. What kinds of accessories completed medieval clothing for women?

Accessories played a big role in medieval fashion. Belts were commonly used to cinch dresses at the waist and were often decorated with metalwork or embroidery. Veils, wimples, and headscarves were worn to cover the hair, especially among married women. Wealthier ladies might have hats like the hennin, a tall, pointed hat, or elaborate braided headdresses. Jewelry was important for those who could afford it, with items such as brooches, rings, and necklaces showcasing wealth. Shoes were typically simple, made of leather, and flat-soled, but styles varied over the centuries.

6. What did working women wear in medieval times?

Working women’s medieval clothing was more practical. These garments were made of coarse wool or linen and were typically undyed or in muted colors. Their dresses were simpler, without embroidery or ornamentation. Working women often wore an apron over their dress to keep it clean while doing chores. The dress itself was usually looser, allowing for ease of movement. To protect their hair and stay comfortable, they wore simple linen head coverings or scarves.

7. How can I buy authentic medieval clothing for women today?

When shopping for authentic medieval clothing for women, you should look for historical accuracy in design, materials, and construction. Reenactment clothing is often designed with period-appropriate patterns, using fabrics like linen, wool, and even silk. Check the seams and stitching; authentic replicas will have hand-sewn details or medieval-style stitching. Look for shops or artisans specializing in historical garments or visit Renaissance fairs and medieval markets, where vendors often sell high-quality replicas. Always read reviews and check the reputation of the store before purchasing.

8. How do I take care of medieval-style clothing?

Proper care for medieval-style clothing, especially if made from natural materials like wool and linen, is essential. Wool garments should be hand-washed or cleaned with a gentle, cold cycle, using a detergent designed for delicates. Lay them flat to dry, as hanging can cause stretching. Linen can be washed more rigorously, but always check if it has embellishments like embroidery or trim that might require gentler care. If your clothing has fur linings or expensive embroidery, consider professional cleaning services. Always store your garments in a cool, dry place to prevent moth damage.

9. What is the difference between peasant and noble medieval clothing for women?

The main difference lies in fabric quality, colors, and ornamentation. Peasant women wore simpler, coarser clothing made from unbleached wool or linen. Their dresses were loose, practical, and rarely dyed with expensive pigments. Noblewomen, on the other hand, wore intricate gowns made of luxurious fabrics like velvet, silk, and brocade. They often wore deep, saturated colors such as reds, blues, and purples, which were expensive to produce. Noblewomen’s clothing was also decorated with fine embroidery, pearls, and gold thread, making their outfits stand out.

10. What headwear did medieval women wear, and why was it important?

Headwear was an essential part of medieval clothing for women, both for fashion and modesty. Veils were common among all classes and were often worn with a wimple that covered the neck and chin. Wealthy women might wear elaborate headdresses like the hennin or crespine, which were sometimes adorned with jewels or veils. The head covering signified a woman’s social status and, in many cases, her marital status. For example, a married woman would typically cover her hair completely, while young, unmarried girls might show some hair.

Conclusion

Wearing medieval clothing for women isn’t just for historical accuracy—it’s also a way to experience the comfort and beauty of timeless fashion. These garments are perfect for medieval fairs, cosplay events, theater productions, and historical reenactments. Each type of dress offers a different look, allowing you to embody the spirit of medieval life, whether you’re aiming for a simple peasant outfit or a gown fit for a queen. When looking for medieval clothing for women, be sure to select high-quality materials and period-accurate designs to make the most of your journey through time.

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